What's in the bag: clubs, lofts and distance gapping
The rules allow fourteen clubs. Most golfers carry fourteen out of habit rather than design, and end up with three clubs that go the same distance and a 40-yard hole in their wedge range. Here is how the set actually fits together.

Written and maintained by the Golf Game Bet Calculator team, who build the scoring engine this site runs on. Last reviewed .
A well-built set does one thing: it covers every distance you face with an even gap between clubs, and it does so with clubs you can actually hit from the lies you find. Everything below — loft, bounce, shaft, forgiveness — is in service of that.
Driver
Modern drivers are typically 9° to 12° of loft, with adjustable hosels that move loft by a degree or two. The old belief that low loft equals distance is wrong for most amateurs: slower swing speeds need loft to launch the ball high with low spin, which is what produces carry. Players under roughly 90 mph of clubhead speed almost always carry the ball further with 10.5° or more.
- Head size: 460cc is the legal maximum and the most forgiving.
- Draw-bias models move weight toward the heel and genuinely reduce a slice, at the cost of some workability.
- Length: a shorter shaft (45 inches instead of 46) usually costs a couple of yards of potential and buys a lot of centre-face contact.
Fairway woods and hybrids
A 3-wood (around 15°) is a tee club on tight holes and a second shot on par 5s from good lies. A 5-wood (18°) is easier to launch from the fairway and, for many players, more useful. Below that, hybrids have largely replaced long irons: the wider sole glides through rough and the centre of gravity sits deeper, so the ball climbs even on a mediocre strike.
A good rule of thumb: if you cannot reliably launch a 4-iron off the deck, replace it with a hybrid of equivalent loft (roughly 22°). Almost nobody at club level is worse off making that swap.
Irons: cavity backs, players' irons and blades
- Game-improvement (cavity back): wide sole, strong lofts, big perimeter weighting. Forgiving on mishits and long. The trade-off is a high flight that can be hard to control in wind and very little shot shaping.
- Players' distance irons: a hollow-body middle ground — thinner look, still forgiving.
- Blades (muscle backs): maximum feedback and control, minimum forgiveness. Suitable for consistent ball strikers, and honestly nobody else.
Be careful comparing iron numbers between sets. Loft has been "strengthened" over the decades: a modern game-improvement 7-iron is often 28°–29°, where a 1995 7-iron was 34°. Your new irons going further is mostly a change of label, not of technology.
Typical carry distances by club and swing speed
| Club | ~80 mph driver swing | ~95 mph driver swing | ~110 mph driver swing |
|---|---|---|---|
| Driver | 180-200 yds | 230-250 yds | 270-290 yds |
| 5-wood / hybrid | 150-165 yds | 190-200 yds | 215-225 yds |
| 7-iron | 115-125 yds | 150-160 yds | 170-180 yds |
| Pitching wedge | 80-90 yds | 115-125 yds | 130-140 yds |
| Sand wedge | 55-65 yds | 85-95 yds | 95-105 yds |
Approximate carry ranges for game-improvement equipment; individual results vary with strike quality, loft and altitude.
Wedges and bounce
Wedge gapping is where most sets fall apart. If your set pitching wedge is 44° and your only other wedge is a 56° sand wedge, you have a 12° gap — roughly 30 yards with no club to cover it. Aim for 4° to 6° between wedges:
- Pitching wedge (44°–46°, comes with the irons)
- Gap / approach wedge (50°–52°)
- Sand wedge (54°–56°)
- Lob wedge (58°–60°) — optional, and only if you practise with it
Bounce is the angle between the leading edge and the lowest point of the sole. High bounce (10°–14°) resists digging and suits soft turf, fluffy sand and steep swings. Low bounce (4°–8°) suits firm ground, tight lies and shallow swings. If you play one course, match the bounce to its conditions; if you travel, mid-bounce is the safe default.
Bounce selection at a glance
| Turf and swing type | Recommended bounce | Typical wedge grind |
|---|---|---|
| Soft turf, steep/digging swing | 10-14° (high bounce) | Full sole, standard grind |
| Firm turf, shallow/sweeping swing | 4-8° (low bounce) | Heel/toe relief, low bounce grind |
| Variable conditions, most club golfers | 8-10° (mid bounce) | Versatile all-purpose grind |
| Soft, fluffy greenside bunkers | 10-14° (high bounce) | Wide sole sand wedge |
Match bounce to your typical turf and angle of attack, not just to the club's marketing name.
Putters
- Blade putters have more toe hang and suit strokes with a noticeable arc.
- Mallets are higher in moment of inertia and usually face-balanced, suiting a straight-back-straight-through stroke.
- Length matters more than model. Most off-the-rack putters are 34–35 inches, which is too long for many players; if your eyes sit well inside the ball, get it cut down.
For the technique side of putting — speed control, green reading and stroke mechanics — see the putting and short game guide.
Shafts: flex, weight and the honest truth
Flex labels are not standardised — one brand's regular is another's stiff. What matters is that the shaft loads and unloads in time with your transition. Broad guidance by driver swing speed: under 85 mph senior or regular, 85–95 regular, 95–105 stiff, above 105 extra stiff. Weight matters at least as much: a lighter shaft can add speed, a heavier one often adds control and tempo.
Graphite dominates woods and is increasingly common in irons for slower swingers; steel is heavier and more consistent for stronger players. If you are going to spend money on one fitting, make it the driver and the wedges — the two ends of the bag where a mismatch costs the most shots.
Building your fourteen
A conventional, well-gapped mid-handicap set looks like this:
- Driver, 5-wood, two hybrids (4 and 5)
- Irons 6 through pitching wedge
- Gap wedge and sand wedge
- Putter
That is thirteen; the fourteenth is a personal choice — a lob wedge, a 3-wood, or a driving iron for windy links courses. The test is simple: chart the carry distance of every club and look for gaps larger than about 15 yards, or clubs that overlap. Fix those before buying anything new.
Regripping, maintenance and when to replace
Grips lose tack long before they look worn out; most golfers who play weekly should regrip once a year. Grooves on irons and wedges wear down with use, and worn grooves cost spin on full shots long before they cost distance — a wedge that has lost its bite is often the single easiest upgrade in the bag for a golfer who plays two or three times a week. Clean grooves after every shot from sand or wet rough; packed dirt in the grooves reduces spin as much as wear does.
What actually lowers scores
Equipment helps at the margins; strategy helps more. A properly gapped set stops you from having no club for the shot in front of you, and a fitted driver keeps more tee shots in play. Beyond that, the savings are in decisions — which is what the course management guide covers.
Frequently asked questions
How many clubs am I allowed to carry?
The Rules of Golf allow a maximum of fourteen clubs. Carrying more results in a penalty in stroke play (two strokes per hole, capped at four strokes for the round) or the loss of holes in match play. Carrying fewer than fourteen is legal and common — many golfers simply do not need every slot filled.
Should I replace my long irons with hybrids?
For most club golfers, yes. Long irons (2, 3, and often 4-iron) have a small sweet spot and a low centre of gravity that is hard to use consistently below around a 10 handicap. Hybrids of equivalent loft have a wider sole and deeper centre of gravity, making them easier to launch from the fairway, rough, and even tight lies.
What driver loft should I use?
As a general rule, slower swing speeds benefit from more loft, not less. Players swinging under about 90 mph usually carry the ball further with 10.5° to 12° of loft because it launches higher with lower spin. Low lofts around 9° only pay off once clubhead speed is high enough to create adequate launch angle on their own.
What is bounce on a wedge and how do I choose it?
Bounce is the angle between the leading edge and the lowest point of the sole, and it determines how the club interacts with turf and sand. High bounce (10-14°) resists digging in soft turf or fluffy sand and suits steeper swings; low bounce (4-8°) suits firm, tight lies and shallower swings. Mid bounce (8-10°) is a safe default for varied conditions.
Is it worth getting fitted for clubs, or can I buy off the rack?
A fitting matters most at the two ends of the bag: the driver, where shaft flex and loft directly affect distance and dispersion, and the wedges, where bounce and gapping directly affect scoring. Mid-irons off the rack are usually fine for higher handicappers. If budget is limited, prioritise fitting the driver first.
Why do modern irons go further than older irons with the same number?
Manufacturers have progressively strengthened iron lofts over the decades — a modern game-improvement 7-iron is often 28-29° of loft, where a 1990s 7-iron was closer to 34°. The extra distance mostly reflects a change in labelling and design, not a technological leap in how far the ball can be hit at a given swing speed.